View Full Version : Available Upgrades for a CA Steyr AUG?

12-07-2008, 10:42 PM
Ok so I have done 3 things to upgrade my gun so far.

1. M120 Spring
2. Larger Battery
3. M16 Tight Bore barrel by Systema

What I was wondering is where to go from here.

It's shooting a little below 400 usually, the battery lasts pretty long so it doesn't die on me early on [hooray] What I would like is to increase the FPS to around 450-470 and get it to a DMR type of AEG, I have a pistol coming so I can use that for close encounters.
From what I have heard and have seen for myself the Mechbox looks very very similar to the standard CA m16 mechbox. I don't know what version it is though.

A few options I have heard of:

1. New cylinder set
2. Bore up kit
3.Buy a Systema mechbox and replace it.

Also I wouldn't be doing this work myself, I would probably send it to Shakman to piece it together :P

12-07-2008, 10:52 PM
Decisions, decisions. Depeding on how tech-handy you are can determine alot of this. If your more like me, or have bad luck with this kind of thing; I would go with option 3 and just buy an entirely new mechbox. Also going with option 3 would take alot of guess work out of the equation, buying numerous parts, mix matching brand parts(which can cause other problems), and lots of shipping costs. I don't know how popular this is in airsoft, but back when I played paintball it wasn't uncommon to just bring your gun to a shop, and give them a certain amount of money they could spend upgrading your gun. But thats just my couple cents. I'm sure shakman could work something out.

12-07-2008, 11:01 PM
I guess I am kinda like you I am pretty bad with mechanics,cars and electronic repairs among other things....

The second battle of this is where I can buy this thing(s): I have no idea. XD

12-07-2008, 11:30 PM
I don't even own an AUG, but the upgrade plan should be the same as for my DMR.

A M140 spring should get you to your target velocity, but you will need higher torque up gear set, and a new piston compatible with the gears and durable enough to the added stress. You will need a bucking that can handle the high velocity.
You shouldn't need a bore up kit unless your tighbore is longer than 510mm or 550mm depending on sources. You won't need new cylinder set unless you get a bore up kit.

A quick search and I found a M140 kit from UNCompany which comes with what you need, but also some things that you don't necessarily need. I bought a similar kit for my G36K DMR.
You may also need a more powerful motor such as System Magnum motor.

There may be a few things I overlooked and others may add to this.

I would let Shak do the job, he built up My DMR.

12-08-2008, 08:23 PM
That kit is quite a few dollars...

I can afford it, but if it has some things I don't even need maybe I would be better off buying them separately. Are these parts all by the same company or what, I can't really tell from the link. We'll see if anyone comes up with other options...

How interchangeable are motors anyways? I really don't want to get extra parts an waste money, I am a penny pincher.

12-08-2008, 08:29 PM
Edit button is being anal so sorry about a double post.

I figure it is safe to assume hey are all by the same company, more specifically what company though? "HurricanE" ?

12-08-2008, 08:37 PM
That kit is quite a few dollars...

Welcome to the world of DMR building.

What you want to do is neither cheap nor is it easy. If you "penny pinch" when it comes to purchasing DMR internals, then you'll be sorely disappointed in the performance and might have an internal part failure very quickly after building it.

I've built a few DMR's now for myself and other folks, and there's more to it than just dropping in the parts and going. With the additional stresses imparted by the stiffer spring, gear shimming becomes critical to proper gearbox function. Sometimes, it takes a while to get the shimming just right whereas with a standard 400fps AEG upgrade, you have some leeway when it comes to shimming.

In short, it's not a cheap undertaking and it takes much trial and error to get everything functioning smoothly. Don't cheap out, or don't do it at all. I don't know any other way to say it.

12-08-2008, 09:58 PM
cheaping out is not what I intend to do, but I do not want to spend money on parts I don't need.

I am willing to put out as much money as it takes to get it done right. I horde my money, but I guess I do splurge a bit when I decide to buy things. Maybe not the definition of a penny pincher par say.

Would getting that kit with a systema motor be the best option, that puts me at about 250 dollars without installation.

So in the end this is going to cost me like $320 or so. Depending on if SHakman does it and how much he works on it :D

12-08-2008, 10:23 PM
Hurricane internals do not have a very good reputation. I have not inspected any recent batches however.

12-08-2008, 10:25 PM
I don't know much about the tech issues nor Hurricane parts with DMR style guns. But I know from friends first hand making a DMR's isn't cheap, and once it breaks you'll pay from your nose to fix it. If you get away only having to pay 320$ you'd be one lucky man. From my experience I've found that the most experienced DMR users' spend 1,000+ creating the gun you see them using on the fields.

12-08-2008, 10:54 PM
Well I still need to buy presents for christmas [guess im going to the 99 cent store :P] this year.

Basically what can I do to get this shooting further straighter... UNDER 400.

12-09-2008, 01:02 AM
Basically what can I do to get this shooting further straighter

Quality hopup bucking.
H-nub packing.
Tightbore barrel.
Looking closely at how the inner barrel is secured inside the gun, ensuring that there is no extraneous movement, i.e. it fits snugly and centered in the outer barrel. Shim it as needed to limit any movement.
Last, but certainly not least, and often overlooked: Quality BBs.

12-09-2008, 01:18 AM
Quality hopup bucking.
H-nub packing.
Tightbore barrel.
Looking closely at how the inner barrel is secured inside the gun, ensuring that there is no extraneous movement, i.e. it fits snugly and centered in the outer barrel. Shim it as needed to limit any movement.
Last, but certainly not least, and often overlooked: Quality BBs.

Don't exactly know what 'bucking' is.
Don't know what that is either.
Have a Systema Tightbore barrel in there.
I'll check that out.
I only use Airsoft Elite BBs which I have heard and read from your evaluation are pretty much the best ones.

Mind explaining the first 2 in short?

12-09-2008, 01:32 AM
Bucking: http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?itm=PM-PT-ASCPHT_cat_Prometheus%20Parts
The packing (or nub) is the small rubber cylinder that is also shown in the picture.
Here is the H-nub: http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?itm=ELE-IN0605_srch_h-hop

12-09-2008, 11:29 AM
I have around $1200+ in my DMR TM AUG. It is a bit finiky and I have to admit that I am still working out the last few bugs. However, I would be glad to talk with you about myexperiences. Phone is better. Please check your PMs for my number.

Peace and grease,

12-09-2008, 12:28 PM
As another option, Madbull also offers buckings with an H-nub, but they call it 'Fishbone X Balancers'. I can't say they are good or bad.

01-27-2009, 08:28 PM
Thread necromancer here reporting in...

I have not purchased anything yet have been considering a few things. I don't really think a DMR would fit my play style anymore. My gun has however seemed to be shooting oddly, slow and I am pretty sure the hopup nub is messing with my BBs. They are shooting out 2 simultaneously sometimes.

So I am pretty positive I need to buy a new hopup. But for the gun shooting so slowly I am not so sure, it already has a M120 but its shooting unacceptably slow. I do not know if this a problem with air compression or what but I am sure it needs a tune up and hopefully I can get it up to a constant 390-400FPS which is what I was initially aiming for with the M120.

Does anyone think I have some other problem I could fix myself without opening the mechbox?

01-27-2009, 10:17 PM
A worn out bucking or bad mag can cause double feeding.

Is the battery fully charged? Maybe your battery can no longer hold a good charge, hence the slow ROF.

Also, is the battery a Nicad or NiMH type battery?

01-27-2009, 10:33 PM
Just chiming in on the whole topic of "shooting straighter, farther"

My replica is pretty much stock, nothing super awesome done to the gearbox outside of a good re-greasing every once in a while and proper reshimming. Instead of going for more FPS, I was advised to work on the hopup instead. So I replaced my barrel with a tightbore, got a better hopup bucking, an H nub, and replaced the stock chamber and I saw DRASTIC improvement in accuracy. It's no DMR but it definitely shoots accurately enough for me to have fun. Also something interesting: I replaced the stock M4 handguards with a free float RIS and got rid of my Chinese pot metal outer barrel and exchanged it with a good quality madbull one and I noticed it seats the hopup chamber a lot tighter than the Chinese one. That seemed to improve my accuracy too, so make sure your hopup chamber is not wiggling around in there like mine was.

Also, experiment with different weights of BBs. I found that .23's worked best for me. Also stay consistent with the BBs, don't use crappy BBs. I have found airsoft Elite BBs to work best for me. Some more about BBs: http://www.airsoftmechanics.com/home/content/view/19/26/

01-27-2009, 10:39 PM
TY2D2, clarify what you mean by shooting slowly? Are you saying the muzzle energy is lacking, i.e. lower than expected for the M120 spring you have in there? Or do you mean the ROF?

A torn hopup bucking, lack of proper air seal which can occur at various part interactions, a broken spring.....all items that could result in poor muzzle energy.

01-27-2009, 11:51 PM
I was about to suggest the same thing as AW. It may be a torn bucking, causing excessive drag on the bb as it is fired.

01-28-2009, 12:24 PM
Sorry I didn't clarify, when I said the gun was shooting slow I meant FPS. It's shooting at and below 300 FPS.

I checked the hopup myself last night and did find a tear, so I'll be adding that to my orde. Now what about this 'H-Nub'? That is the peice that affects the BB if I understand correctly. But do they come wit hthe hopup buckings? I saw some that included them and some that I couldn't tell if they were 1 or 2 peices. Anyone know of a good one I could get from airsoftgi? I am making an order there already.

The problem with the gun shooting out 2 BBs at a time I am sure isn't the mags fault, I tested it in 2 different mags/brands, so I assume its the hopup too...

Battery is NiMH and I am sure its working fine, ROF is good.

01-28-2009, 02:28 PM
These are H-nubs: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_170&products_id=4126
The concept is that they apply pressure on each end and not as much in the middle such that the hop bucking has a more consistent flat bump when looking down the barrel. This results in more evenly distributed and applied hop effect to the BB for better accuracy. That is compared to the spherical bump that a regular nub/packing applies, in which is more of point contact with the BB and thus more side-to-side variance.

Most of the time, hop buckings come with regular nubs/packings as seen here:

In some cases, they are included:

Lots to choose from:

Replace your hop bucking first, then chrono the gun to see how it performs. If the muzzle energy is still much lower than expected, we'll have to problem solve from there.