View Full Version : VSR-10 Gspec stuff...

05-17-2005, 04:33 AM
I have a TM VSR-10 Gspec that I purchased from Redwolf Airsoft. I got their $75.00 spring upgrade, because I didn't feel like drilling into the cylinder and such...

Anyhow, at the time that I purchased it, it said that it was a 450 fps (on .2g bb's) spring upgrade package. Now, I'm assuming that's a 1.9j spring... (correct me if I'm wrong)

Naturally, the internals got jacked up, which I expected. So now I have a Zero Trigger, and a ball bearing spring guide on the way.

So my question is this: Assuming that it's hitting ~450fps right now with just the spring, what would I expect from having a metal high pressure piston, a bigger o-ring, and a ball bearing spring guide? ~460 or ~470 fps? Or more?

While I haven't added anything to the gun as far as a tightbore barrel, barrel spacers, these new parts coming will replace just about every internal part in the gun save the cylinder and barrel. I'm looking forward to it, quite honestly, because after buggering up the internals with the spring, I'm really jonesing to play. haha

05-17-2005, 12:08 PM
If you haven't found this guide, check this link out. It's a good place to start. http://www.honolulu888.com/Vsr10.html

I'm currently running an m150 on the stock barrel w/ relevant upgrades and it is chronoing 450 on the dot. Everything is sealed up tight etc. Lately though, someone on ASR has been claiming ~530 equivilance using an m150 and a long tightbore, but im not sure how much I buy that.

Anyways, I doubt you'll see a noticeable change from the piston. However, changing the o-ring to get perfect compression will make a difference, especially with stronger springs and tighter barrels. The spring guide will just prevent you from having to worry about the plastic one snapping. Make sure you put some teflon tape on the threads that attach the base to the rod. With heavier springs, it has a tendency to unscrew itself. Make sure you dont drop any of the little bearings out from the bottom while you're doing this, they're a pain to get back in.

05-18-2005, 02:22 AM
That sounds good to me... I want to keep the outer barrel stock... I've always had a thing for "sleepers". :D My car is tricked out a bit, but you couldn't tell by looking at it. I love it when people see something that just looks totally stock, but then all of a sudden, WHAM! lol Anyhow... After I get these parts in, a longer tightbore barrel is next on the list, followed then by barrel spacers, and last but not least, the cylinder and new cylinder head. :-)

P-90 kid
05-24-2005, 09:26 PM
does any one know a good sniper for a new sniper to the game. I have a p-90 for close combat but nothing for long range. I'v been looking on airsoft web sites for a good one that is less then $400.00

can a pro with a sniper HELP!!!!!

05-24-2005, 09:54 PM
does any one know a good sniper for a new sniper to the game. I have a p-90 for close combat but nothing for long range. I'v been looking on airsoft web sites for a good one that is less then $400.00

can a pro with a sniper HELP!!!!!
You created a thread about this same question. Keep the discussion about that topic in that thread, not in this one. In this thread, stay on the topic.

05-25-2005, 04:35 AM
Heh... actually... I think something is majorly wrong with my gun... when I re-assembled the gun with the new parts, I SWEAR that I lost FPS. So... after a day of playing, I took it apart and cleaned and lubricated everything, now I have NO compression. I pull the piston back a bit, put my finger over the cylinder head (which is the stock TM one ::sheepish grin::) and let the piston go, SLAP it thwacks right against piston head. There is ZERO seal on the gun. I did notice a few... eroded? spots on the cylinder head's O-ring, but they looked so insubstantial that I didn't expect them... think that's it? If it is, I'll just use it as an excuse to get a new cylinder and/or piston head... What do you think of those PRO Laylax piston heads with the interchangeable nozzles? Or should I just go with the "Air Damper Cylinder Head" thing?

EDIT - 6:15pm 5/25 - After looking closer at the O-ring on the cylinder head, the little "erosions" are actually tiny tears where the cylinder's threads dug into it...

05-26-2005, 04:13 PM
Some teflon tape will fix that right up, give it a couple of wraps around the cylinder head and you should be golden. Just make sure you dont have any more burrs in the hole that you drilled to remove the cylinder head. While you've got the tape out, if you have the HP piston with the airbrake removed, you might want to tape the threads on the little hex screw you put in its place. On top of that, you can and should check to see if you're getting a good seal on the piston. Someone told me that if you take everything out of the cylinder, you can put the piston in upside down, and watch to see if it hits the bottom, or just bounces a little bit.

The new cylinder head supposedly gives better airflow through the nozzle. The only difference between the interchangable and non interchangable ones is that you can switch the nozzles to move the bb foreward or backwards inside the hop... ie you can push the bb deeper or not as deep as you see fit. Unless your're really hardcore about your groups, I wouldnt bother with it. The real reason I bought mine is to replace the damaged stock one due to the fact that the person I had drill the pin ended up drilling a bit into the cylinder head, so I ordered a new one just to be safe.

EDIT: While im thinking about it, be careful with the ammount of lube you get in/around your cylinder. Both the rings that support the piston and the rings that support the cylinder are slick enough to use without much lube. Most people suggest using only a small wipe of lube around the cylinder o-ring. There's a reason for this fear of lube, being that if you have too much, some can leak into the hop rubber either gunking it up, or making the rubber too slick to apply effective backspin to the bb. And it's not like we can just shoot a hicap through it to clean it out. :AR15:

05-27-2005, 02:06 AM
I'll try all of that...

I read about teflon tape, but I would be really surprised if that completely solved the problem... :( I think I might also try to buy new O-rings while I'm getting the teflon tape. :)

It couldn't hurt, and since I scored the other one with the threads, it would be good to replace them anyhow.

News to come.

06-07-2005, 09:34 AM
Hey Lenbo, try removing your air brake. I bet that will increase your FPS substantialy.

Good Luck,


06-08-2005, 01:32 AM
Yeah, thanks. lol Since I already did it and told you about it. ROFL But yeah, for the record, after I teflon taped everything and teflon taped the replacement screw for the airbrake, I'm slamming through the bottom edge and center of coke cans. 450-470 on the "Poor Man's Chronograph" according to RedwolfAirsoft. :D Thanks for all the help and suggestions.