View Full Version : 10.8v

06-24-2003, 10:24 AM
I have an M4A1 w/ metal bushings, m120, and no fusebox. I was thinking about getting a 10.8V large battery to carry externally. I am hesitant to do so because I have no fusebox and do not want to risk damaging my gun. Do you think I could get a 10.8V without killing it? Is it worth the extra voltage? I know I'm going to at least get a 9.6V 3000mAh.

P.S. I have checked all over the place for battery recomendations and the info varies greatly from place to place.


06-24-2003, 10:43 AM
You can run a 9.6v or 10.8v pack through there just fine.....your ROF will be much greater than what you are probably used to. Furthermore, the increased voltage will put more stress on parts, so just be aware of that risk.

IMO, a 9.6v will be just fine unless you really just want insane ROF at the increased risk of broken parts.

As for the fuse, the voltage increase will not be the problem. What the fuse is protecting you against is excessive current. The only way you'll damage the gun without a fuse is if something is wrong with it already (excessive friction from improper gear shimming, not installing the motor correctly, a broken gear or some other parts that binds up the motor). What the fuse does is blows when the current draw is too great....which indicates that something is wrong elsewhere internally with the AEG, not that the battery voltage is too high. The fuse blowing therefore is a failsafe to help prevent more parts from being destroyed.

Personally, I don't see the need or reason to remove fuses from AEG's, but that's just me, and I surely don't know everything out there.

06-24-2003, 11:25 AM

Check that chart that recommends what maximum battery size you should have for each motor/spring. The recommendation for an EG1000 motor and M120 is smaller than what Wolv said, so just go with Wolv's suggestion.

06-24-2003, 04:14 PM
That article on redwolf is one of the most retarded articles I have read on batteries in a while. The current has more to do with how long your battery will run. It has jack to do with what kind of spring your gun can push. The voltage is far more important when it comes to pushing a larger spring. Generally the motor needs more voltage to overcome the resistance of the spring. So say you have an M120 in your gun. If you have an 8.4 600mah you will be able to shoot 2 to 4 hicaps through it before the battery is dead. With and 8.4 2000mah you will be able to play the majority of the day 10+ hicaps. The 8.4v batteries will produce roughly the same rate of fire no matter what mah they are rated for. Now if you switch to a 9.6 2000 you will have a signifigant increase in rate of fire assuming you are running an M120. A 10.8 would be another jump in ROF. When they say you need an 8.4 3000 for running a m150 they are not all there. You might be able to turn a M150 with an 8.4 if you had a super torque up motor. With that strong of spring what would most likely happen is the motor would turn slowly and pull the piston back to the point that it locked. When I was building my SR25 I had an M160 in the gearbox and was trying to run it with a 9.6 2000mah battery. It would lock up almost every time I pulled the trigger because the motor did not have enough voltage to produce enough torque to pull that strong of spring. Now I have a 12.0v 2400 mah battery and it is able to pull the spring with little effort and it can do it all day long due to the 2400 mah.

In regards to your question I would hesitate going to a 10.8 with stock gears. I had a 10.8 ready mag battery in one of my M4's. I ended up shredding a gear because it would spin the gears fast enough that they would throw the grease off. If you have torque up or super torque up gears it would not be a problem as they are geared lower. That being said I was able to run it for quite a while before that gear died.

Regarding fuses. Some of my guns have them and some do not. Personally I think it matters little if they are in there or not. If you do not have a fuse in your gun you do not want to be stupid.....if your gun stops firing do not keep pulling the trigger hoping it will work. The nice thing about having fuses in the gun is they are an indicator of how your mechbox is running. If you are blowing fuses everytime you use your gun, there is something wrong. It could be something with your battery but is most likely something wrong in the mechbox that is causeing the motor to have to work too hard. If everythign is not moving the way it is suppose to the motor will draw more current from the battery. If it exceeds what the fuse is rated for it will blow. A good indication of a problem.

12-17-2004, 07:11 PM
one question I have on the matter is if you have an upgraded gun and the fuse is blowing could it be from just lack of power from the battery. I just recently purchased a Classic Army M15A4 tactical carbine at the OP:RDGIII and installed a PDI 190 spring in it and locked the motor up (its toast) and blew the fuse. I took the mech box apart and everything was just like it was when I took it apart the first time to install the new spring. This may have been answered already but I am just at a loss and want to make sure that is most likely the problem before replacing the motor and trying it again. Also I am going to use a 10.8v battery to power this after it is all said and done.

12-17-2004, 07:21 PM
1. PDI190% is too hot for TASO rules. PDI170% = M120
2. Yes, it is possible that a battery that doesn't have enough power can cause blown fuses, but you'll hear the motor clicking prior to that, as it tries to crank the gears.
3. A 9.6v battery is plenty enough to power that spring. You shouldn't need a 10.8v. Hell, a 8.4v fully-charged pack should power that spring, although at a low ROF and probably not for very long.
4. When you installed the stronger spring, did you check the gear shimming? Just because the gears and shims were replaced the same way you found them doesn't mean they were installed from the manufacturer correctly.......hence the reason that CA got the reputation they've earned.

12-17-2004, 07:40 PM
I bought the gun at the ops last weekend after my SR-16 went down and used it the rest of the day without any problems. The problem started after I installed the new spring. I put everything back together just as it came apart, shims back in the respective places they came from, and right after that is when my little problem happened. So I am pretty sure it was due to the upgrade just was not sure. Also I am aware that under the assault weapon guidelines that spring will put me a little over the FPS limits but I plan on using this rifle as a sniper rifle so I should still be under the FPS limits as far as sniper guidelines go.

12-17-2004, 07:46 PM
Like I said, see #4 above. The gears need to reshimmed properly. As springs get stronger, the importance of the gears meshing properly grows.

Also for sniper AEGs, the weapon should be modified to shoot semi-auto only.

12-17-2004, 07:54 PM
Thanks Wolv, sorry I missed that point you were making. I'll tear it down and check it out this weekend. Thanks again.

12-17-2004, 11:29 PM
Can a weapon with a selector plate be modified to shoot semi-auto only by covering the second set of metal prongs (the full-auto section)? Not that I am going to do this, but my G36C has a fire selector like this, and I imagine you could cover the second prongs on the plate with electrical tape, etc., to prevent fully automatic fire.

12-18-2004, 09:58 AM
You can modify any weapon fire semi only. With a version 2 mechbox it generally involves making a cut in the selector so that it will not push this little lever that engages full auto. Version 3 generally involves removing some of the gearing that slides the selector as well as taping or using an adhesive to glue the selector in one spot.