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skitelluride531
04-18-2004, 04:57 PM
Hey, I just picked up a DTP Ak47 metal body for fairly cheap. I wanted to see if anyone has painted theirs to match the color of the Ak47 magazines. If so, do you remember what paint you used, and any tips you could give on painting it? Thanks

AustinWolv
04-18-2004, 08:26 PM
Talk to cold-blooded. He just used header paint or something of that sort on a M4 body and was impressed with it.

coldblooded
04-19-2004, 12:00 AM
Paints (both the exact same thing/quality, just different places to get them):
Autozone has Duplicolor "Low Gloss Black" engine enamel
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html
Pep Boys has Plastikote "Low Gloss Black" engine enamel
http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/auto/template.jsp?searchcode=RES&product=EngineEnamel

Both are superb for a nice smooth black finish. It's a bit glossier than flat black, but not shiny at all. This stuff is incredibly durable though. You can beat, scratch, and bang your gun around, and the stuff looks perfect.
In my experience, flat black paint just scratches off and looks nasty pretty quickly.

Use decent paint prep procedures. Spraying any paint on an unprepped gun will look nasty.
On the metal body, you should be able to use acetone or denatured alchohol to get that existing paint stripped off (DO NOT use these things on plastic bodies unless they have tons of paint on them that needs to come off, and then be very cautious; will eat away the plastic).
Then get some #00 or #000 steel wool (synthetic steel wool pads work nice), and go over it until it's as smooth as you can get it (if there's chipping, etc). It should look scratched up and dull. This give the paint something to stick to.
Now wipe everything with rubbing alchohol and try not to touch it as you put it on clean paper towels or newspaper.
Be sure you're in a ventilated area, and that it's not too cold (condensation of cold metal will cause a major 'orange peel' appearance). Shake the can until your arm hurts, and start spraying. Plan on about three coats, none of them should be thick at all (first coat should just barely put a glaze on, then get a little thicker with each coat).
Thin coats and 15+ minutes drying time will give you an awesome finish that will last and look really sharp.
BTW, If you want to keep trades that are silkscreened on (a la SR16), you're screwed.

skitelluride531
04-19-2004, 12:26 AM
Coldblooded, thanks for the info. Do you have any idea where I could pick up some acetone or denatured alchohol that you mentioned? Thanks again.

coldblooded
04-19-2004, 12:13 PM
Home Depot, Lowe's, or most likely Autozone/Pep Boys etc. Expect to pay around $6/can for the engine enamel, and about the same for a medium sized can of acetone. If worse comes to worse, you can use nail polish remover (typically acetone based), but it is not nearly as strong as straight industrial strength acetone.

P.S. I might recommend getting some rubber/surgical gloves before beginning your process. Acetone will dry your skin out something fierce, and it'll take a few days to get paint off your hands. I grew up with my hands in solvent tanks, so I usually can't be bothered, but take the warning for what it's worth.

nf9648
04-27-2004, 10:18 PM
MEK (methylethylkeatone) works good too, dont forget the gloves...